Home India’s ‘pickle queen’ preserves everything, including the past Usha Prabakaran at home in Chennai, India on Dec. 10. 2019. (Saumya Khandelwal/The New York Times)

Usha Prabakaran at home in Chennai, India on Dec. 10. 2019. (Saumya Khandelwal/The New York Times)

Flavor and spice ingredients used in pickling by Usha Prabakaran in Chennai, India on Dec. 10. 2019. (Saumya Khandelwal/The New York Times)

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