Trends may come and go but couture remains forever. This lofty statement will certainly ring true for many fashion enthusiasts around the country. And with the festive and wedding season around the corner, the search for bespoke couture outfits to fit a number of occasions becomes even greater. Hence, the pinnacle event of India’s sartorial calendar – the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI)’s Hyundai India Couture Week 2024 in association with Reliance Brands, held at The Taj Palace, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi, is the event on every couture lover’s radar.
As part of this event, fourteen of the country’s best couturiers showcased their collections to a rapt audience during the last week of July 2024. On display was creativity of the highest order, ranging from traditional lehengas and achkans to contemporary gowns, jackets and dresses. The beautiful showcases epitomised the words of fashion icon Donatella Versace, “Fashion is about dreaming and making other people dream.” Amidst the revelry, we kept our eyes peeled for the foremost fashion trends set to define the style narrative of the coming season by making their way off the ramp. Here’s everything you need to know:
Skirting the Issue
There is no denying that the lehenga is the garment that singlehandedly symbolises Indian occasion-wear for women. Though in its traditional sense, this ankle-length skirt is worn flared and embellished, over the years, it has caught the imagination of every designer and fashionista and been reinterpreted in a number of interesting ways.
This time around was no exception as some designers freely experimented with scale and proportions to dramatic effect. Taking inspiration from Grecian silhouettes were the fluid body-shaping drapes of Tarun Tahiliani, paired with fitted corsets and sheer sleeves. His mandate was to create clothing that allowed women to wear couture while being supremely comfortable.
Then there were the playful versions of Rimzim Dadu’s skirts. Best-known for her out-of-the-box thinking, Dadu’s daringly distinctive display with micro-mini fronts and sweepingly long backs, heavily fringed pieces, and structured lines stayed true to her avant-garde style juxtaposed with Baroque architectural grandeur.
Reimagining the Sharara
When Indian brides aren’t rocking their lehengas, they are most certainly adorning their shararas in style. However, even this age-old half-fitted and half-flared pant has been reimagined in 2024. Gaurav Gupta, the king of experimentation, sent out his models in shararas paired with crisp embellished blazers with power sleeves.
On the other hand, Jayanti Reddy chose the more traditional route with this garment. Even so, she took the temperature up a notch by giving her showstopper Aditi Rao Hydari a plunging neckline on the matching shirt.
Taking the creativity up further was Kunal Rawal whose gender-neutral clothing is popular with men and women alike. His voluminous shararas were paired with long achkans for a fun take on androgynous occasion wear.
Sari-torial Sensations Ruling the Ramp
The classic saree is a garment that never goes out of style. It fits the mandate of both casual and couture with equal elan. This time, its many iterations paired with tiny, sequinned bralettes or creatively imagined blouses show that its popularity is set in stone. Its strongest advocates were Falguni and Shane Peacock, who collaborated with Swadesh to create a capsule collection of sarees featuring textile-led crafts such as Kanjivaram silks, renowned for their luxurious texture and intricate motifs, woven with real gold and silver zari threads. Even the FSP monogram was woven into the saree borders, to ensure they remained truly one-of-a-kind.
Another interesting take on the traditional saree was Amit Aggarwal’s – a designer known for his avant-garde pieces. He took the traditional silken weave and refashioned it into a layered gown-like garment that is sure to turn heads when worn.
Rahul Mishra stayed true to his refreshingly floral designs by imposing them on to sheer pastel-hued sarees perfect for summer soirees. Interestingly, some of these sarees featured shorter petticoats, adding an extra dimension to the layered feeling as well as an unexpected pop of sultriness.
Royalty on the Rise
India’s regal tradition has always played muse to the designers showcasing at India Couture Week, and this edition was no different. JJ Valaya stuck with traditional embroidered silhouettes that blended classic modernity with sartorial elegance. Not many can lay claim to the skill of traditional north Indian craftsmanship like Valaya. As an ardent supporter of Indian crafts and textiles, he is synonymous with couture that reflects, enhances and celebrates the varied cultural aspects of India. He achieves this by working closely with master craftsmen and weavers across the country.
Asal and Mard by Abu-Sandeep was another royal collection that made a mark. The beauty and grandeur of aged textiles, embroideries, clothes and even the haveli backdrop truly represented the royal aesthetic. For the collection, they dove deep into India’s archives to curate clothing that paid homage to the impeccable craftsmanship and time-honoured heritage of Indian fashion.
On similar lines, was Dolly J’s presentation which embraced a royal and timeless feel. It was her desire to create a collection that explored the enduring allure of beauty across epochs, creating an escapist realm where time is halted and beauty reigns supreme.
Shine and Shimmer
There is nothing new about designers fusing western trends with traditional craft, and one of the time-tested ways to do so is by incorporating shine and shimmer through sequins, gota patti, cutdana work or mirrorwork. Suneet Varma’s sexy sequinned outfits perfectly fit the bill for this category.
Siddharth Tytler brought on the glitz and glam in unexpected ways, such as through sequinned zipper waistcoats paired with asymmetrical kurta-pyjamas for the men. Another interesting piece that caught our eye from his collection was a fitted, sequinned gown complimented by voluminous sheer sleeves.
Roseroom by Isha Jajodia played with the colour-on-colour sequin idea to create classically beautiful outfits in a variety of flattering silhouettes. There was certainly something for everyone in the showcases of India Couture Week’s talented designers.
Noor Anand Chawla pens lifestyle articles for various publications and her blog www.nooranandchawla.com.