With a legacy that spans centuries, the capital city of Delhi offers patrons a variety of culinary delights. The best place to sample them all is Dhilli, the revamped Indian restaurant at the Oberoi Hotel, New Delhi. With a menu curated by Michelin-starred Chef Vineet Bhatia, MBE (Member of the British Empire), one can enjoy these age-old dishes with a delightful new-age flair.
We were recently invited to Dhilli to sample the new winter specialities presented by Chef Bhatia. He had curated this specific seasonal menu to highlight the flavours of the seven districts of Delhi. Regaling us with stories while presenting the dishes, he shared, “Dhilli restaurant takes its name from the honourable Raja Dhilu who, in the 1st century BCE, established one of the earliest townships in this area. By paying homage to Delhi’s ancient legacy, Dhilli restaurant gives a symbolic nod of respect to the city’s deep roots and storied past. The city’s culinary legacy tells a story of battles fought and won, empires and kingdoms brought here from afar, and the fluid movement of peoples and communities into and around Delhi throughout history. At Dhilli, we aim to let guests discover the city from the comfort of their table.”
Chef Bhatia’s menu focuses on recipes taken from the homes of long resident families, stalls found on the street and traditional community kitchens. “One can sample the iconic chaat dishes of Chandni Chowk, the delectable kormas of Jama Masjid and more. We trace a culinary map that celebrates the spirit of a city which has embraced diverse influences to become the cultural melting pot it is today. The menu is organised region-wise, rather than course-wise, to facilitate this culinary journey,” shared the Chef.
Corresponding with the different districts of Delhi, the menu is divided into seven sections. The first of these focuses on the chaats of Chandni Chowk such as the unique shakar kandi chaat. In Chef Bhatia’s words: “The tangy, spicy-sweet allure of Chandni Chowk’s legendary chaat transports guests into the heart of old Delhi. Bursting with nostalgia and bold flavours, these dishes capture the vibrancy that makes Chandni Chowk a street food lover’s paradise.”
There are also kebabs and kormas from Jama Masjid including Chef Bhatia’s famed malai boti kebab, a seasonal speciality that melts in the mouth. “Rich in history and flavour, the slow-cooked kebabs and kormas from Jama Masjid epitomise Mughlai excellence. Dhilli’s renditions celebrate traditional cooking techniques that nurture tender meats, aromatic spices and velvety textures fit for royalty.”
Punjabi delicacies from Rajouri Garden include crackling kachoris and crispy fried pakodas, coal-fired tandoori chicken tikka basted with desi ghee and the seasonal favourite sarson ka saag. He explained, “Known for its hearty and soulful fare, Rajouri Garden inspires this section of the menu with dishes that reflect the Punjabi zest for life. Creamy gravies and robust spices infuse each indulgent dish with nostalgia.”
The Bengali cuisine from CR Park is another popular section which features mustard-infused curries, fragrant rice dishes and winter favourites like murgh anda biryani, sharing a glimpse of East India’s culinary treasures. There are also biryanis and pulaos from Nizamuddin which the Chef described as being, “Fit for a king’s table”. He added, “Each dish is a masterpiece of slow-cooked perfection, blending aromatic spices, basmati rice and rich accompaniments for a deeply satisfying experience.” There are also pillow-soft breads from Paranthewali Gali crafted to complement the other dishes on the menu, as well as a variety of desserts inspired by the streetside fare of Old Delhi. These include the shahi tukda, a festive bread pudding enriched with saffron syrup and cardamom.
Manish Sharma, Executive Chef at The Oberoi, New Delhi, shared: “Michelin-starred Chef Vineet Bhatia’s unrivalled knowledge of the culinary landscape of our wonderful city has culminated in a menu that leads guests on an enchanting journey through its streets, alleys and palaces, where lavish feasts are juxtaposed against finger food and daadee-ji’s daal; where each dish is honoured for its role in shaping the contours of Delhi’s food map.”
“A meal at Dhilli is an invitation to indulge in the vibrant and multi-cultural cuisine that defines this extraordinary city,” concluded Chef Bhatia. Dhilli is open for dinner seating on weekdays and lunch and dinner seatings on weekends (Friday through Sunday). A tasting menu of specially curated small plates, aperitifs and a beverage selection is available to patrons. The restaurant also offers a private dining room for up to six guests.
Our winter lunch experience of the tasting menu was certainly a memorable one. Apart from the delicious flavours of age-old and beloved dishes, it was a pleasure to see the immense creativity that went into assembling these dishes. Often, unique flavour profiles that many would consider at variance with their traditional counterparts, were used innovatively to offer the same taste despite their differences. A meal at Dhilli recreates the pleasure of Delhi’s streets and homes but with considerably greater convenience and panache.
Noor Anand Chawla pens lifestyle articles for various publications and her blog www.nooranandchawla.com.