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Kehwa, wazwaan and the art of soulful conversation

CultureKehwa, wazwaan and the art of soulful conversation
The community centre of New Friends Colony in Delhi, though posh, is not a vibrant spot at all, unless one is a shopping enthusiast or a firm hanger-on of eateries like McDonalds, Domino’s, Subway, or the local food chains like Al Bake or Zahra. Based in this place is Ramsa’s Kitchen.  A new eatery in town, it offers a vast array of cuisines along with an indulgence in literature and music.
It is the tedium of the place that gives Ramsa’s Kitchen an upper hand over neighbouring outlets, partly because the menu is fresh and different but chiefly because it hosts weekly musicals, open mics, poetry recitals and literary meets. These events give a lively touch to an otherwise drab corner, which intrigues regulars and passers-by alike.
Ramsa Jaan, the owner of the place, is just 28, but her entrepreneurial endeavour is bolder than her age. The distinct menu features cuisines all the way from Hyderabad and Kashmir and in particular the Kashmiri Wazwaan—a celebrated set of delicacies usually served during wedding receptions in Kashmir.
A small, well-lit place with cosy interiors, this place is furnished with dark leather-covered seating and varnished tabletops—a combination that complements white walls and the sunset ceiling. The exterior is a balconic corner, without a parapet or any enclosure, with a couple of tables and foldable chairs, the quintessential setting of the roadside French Cafes. Ebony frames hang on the walls—featuring poetry, paintings and photographs of the budding artists, especially from Kashmir—and they are curated by Ramsa herself. You can see Shakespeare, Delacroix and Steve McCurry along with budding Kashmiri poets, artists and photographers.
“I could have gone into other businesses, but I wanted to host. It is in our genes; Kashmiris love to host,” she said on the opening ceremony of her restaurant. Ramsa Jaan hails from Kupwara, famous for the temperate weather it sees throughout the year and the splendid valley of Lolab.
“I felt an incessant urge throughout to go back to my home, or at least have a home away from home,” says Ramsa.  She believes that there are thousands of people who feel the same way. “People often call this place as their Maatamal, or their maternal home. Because here they get to see each other and catharise”
Inside, there is a book bank—a small shelf stacked with books that have been donated to the restaurant—from where you can borrow a book for two weeks. You can read Orwell, Pamuk, Agha Shahid Ali, Elif Shafak, Zutshi, Ghalib, among others. But there is a rule, to become a member: you have to donate at least one book to the lot. Ramsa manages the catalogue herself.
On an ordinary evening, Kashmiri Kehwa—a traditional aromatic beverage prepared from saffron, honey and almonds—lies almost on every table, while musicians like Ali Safuddin, Alif, Abdal, Parvaaz, and Ramooz resound on the speakers. Ramsa comes to your table, greets you with a warm smile, and takes the orders herself. Choosing from the ten-pager is a nightmare, but she’s always there to help, may be more than that: expounding a vast array of cuisines and the clandestine processes they undergo during preparations. Ramsa’s Kitchen is a corner that is keeping the foothold of long-held kashmiri tradition alive.
“I make lots of friends, yeah. It is not just about the restaurant. We must cherish love and give space for harmony,” she adds.
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