As a nation obsessed with Bollywood, we have never shied away from emulating the bridal looks, outfits, trends, songs, and even
However, in the last decade or so, the tables seem to have turned. Now Bollywood’s on-screen brides seem to be mimicking what real brides wear, as the latter become trendsetters instead of mere followers. Explaining what the bride of today wants, Sunil Sethi, chairman, Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), says, “She wants to shine a light on her own personality, individuality and choices. Comfort has become key as the nature of weddings has changed. Gone are the days when they had to greet long queues of people by standing in a demure manner and have their pictures clicked. Wedding ceremonies are also becoming more intimate generally, with larger-than-life weddings being restricted to a lucky few. For most people, it’s about being in the company of their own friends and closest family. On such occasions, it’s important to be who you are, rather than be dolled up in a heavy ghoonghat or a traditional style.”
When urban, educated, and highly independent women are choosing their own paths in life, along with their bridal outfits, it’s natural for this change to reflect on screen. Who can forget Kareena Kapoor’s path-breaking Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla wedding outfits from 2018’s film about female friendships, “Veere di Wedding”? For a pre-wedding celebration, she wore a kitschy and colourful lehenga skirt with mirror work and thread embroidery, paired with a fun cropped blouse with printed voluminous sleeves and an ornate neckline. On the wedding day, she stunned as a traditional bride writing her own rules. Though the intricate zari-embroidery was reminiscent of classic bridal outfits, the outfit’s cheery yellow colour and off-shoulder pearl-embellished neckline certainly made it an unusual choice. When it came to light that the outfit was originally made 25 years before it was worn for the film with a few modern tweaks, it only proved that timeless and trendy often go hand-in-hand.
In fact, female-focussed films truly allow for sartorial creativity to shine through. Hence, Bhumi Pednekar’s pale beige Tarun Tahiliani lehenga from the film “Thank You For Coming” made a mark. Adorned in delicate hand-embroidery, the voluminous lehengawas beautifully offset with a sculpted corset. Its rich zardozi border and delicate crystal embellishments added just the rightoomph. The muted colours and stunning work reminded one of another iconic real-life bridal look that had caught everyone’s attention in 2022 –Alia Bhatt wearing a zari-embroidered Sabyasachi saree at her own nuptials.
Another trendy Bollywood bride who wrote her own rules was Anushka Sharma’s Alizeh in 2016’s “Ae Dil Hai Mushkil”. Even as she stuck with certain traditional silhouettes like Manish Malhotra’s sharara with short kurta set and zardozi and sequin lehenga for the main functions, the outfit she wore to her Mehendi ceremony in the popular song “Cutie Pie” defied all norms of tradition at the time, as it paired a pristine silk shirt with a conventional lehenga skirt and stunning polki necklace. More recently, we saw Alia Bhatt play the role of a Bengali bride tying the knot with her Punjabi suitor in “Rocky aur Rani ki Prem Kahani”. Her Manish Malhotra outfit was traditional in its choice of silhouette and embroidery, yet its muted orange shade and plunging neckline set it apart.
According to couturier Rahul Mishra, this shift in Bollywood film brides mirroring real brides of the day, is the result of a broader evolution in societal norms and individual empowerment. He says, “Today’s brides, regardless of their background or profession, are real brides who are asserting their independence and making choices that align with their personal tastes and preferences. Unlike in the past where weddings catered to large audiences, modern brides prioritise personal expression over societal expectations. This evolution defies the outdated beliefs that a bride’s career, particularly in the entertainment industry, would be compromised by marriage. Ultimately, the changing portrayal of brides in Bollywood films mirrors the increasing independence and empowerment of women in society. And ultimately fashion is a reflection of the evolved society that is evident in the choices that a bride is making.”
The change is visible in films as well asthe offerings of various OTT platforms, with the frontrunner being Prime Video’s Emmy-nominated, “Made in Heaven”. Shobhita Dhulipala’s protagonist Tara Khanna is impeccably dressed as she transitions from chic office wear to sedate courtroom-appropriate attire. Yet, it’s her wardrobe choices as a wedding planner overseeing various functions that truly stand out. While sheembraces Manish Malhotra’s blingy and beautiful georgette and sequin motif beige saree with a sexy blouse, she also beautifully carries off a muted Raw Mango weave paired with a long-sleeved contrasting blouse.
The various brides on the show also serve refreshing looks in keeping with their backgrounds, personalities and situations. So, Mrunal Thakur’s North Indian Jain heritage is alluded to in Tarun Tahiliani’s gorgeous red and white lehenga, Shibani Dandekar’s fierce character fighting societal norms adorns a bold Gaurav Gupta gown, and Radhika Apte’s Maharashtrian Buddhist bride is ethereal in a traditional Kanchi silk saree by Gaurang Shah.
Interestingly, not everyone in the film industry agrees on the starkness of this change. Filmmaker Faraz Ansari feels that cinema does indeed inspire most of our aesthetics — both tangible and intangible. However, he accedes, “There has been an overlap of commerce and arts, especially in the fashion world. The same designers who are dressing the actors are also dressing the brides. This fashion boom is a recent one in our country. Hence, the aesthetic choices are very similar. What the designers want to sell to their clients is what is made visible on the screen too for obvious reasons.”
While off-screen trends certainly seem to be driving on-screen bridal outfit choices, the latter are also built around the context of the role being played. Cases in point: Katrina Kaif shining as the beautiful traditional Christian bride in her fitted couture white gown in “Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara”, and Kareena Kapoor Khan in her pink Patiala salwar-suit as a traditional Punjabi bride for “Laal Singh Chadha”.
Here, we see another visible on-screen trend that mirrors real life– brides attempting to find the middle ground between a love of traditional weaves and the desire to dress according to one’s personality. Hence, just as real-life brides shun high heels for comfy sneakers and choose muted makeup looks over full-glam ones, a number of on-screen brides follow suit.
Alia Bhatt’s nod to different traditions in the penultimate scene from “2 States” is a good example of this. In her bright red Benarasi half saree, she seamlessly blended her character’s Tamil origins with those of her Punjabi husband’s. Palak Shah, CEO, Ekaya Banaras, has noticed the uptick in traditional weaves on screen too. She explains, “The allure of Banarasi textiles has always captivated women’s imaginations. Women have always wanted and dreamt of wearing a timeless Banarasi for their big day. Although the recent embrace by style icons has undoubtedly fuelled its demand, but the purists have always cherished it.”
Change is certainly afoot, and it’s been a long time coming. Costume designer and stylist to the stars, Nandita Mahtani, summarises: “In the last 10 years, the audience and the clientele has become a lot more aware because of social media and the internet. There is so much information available now on trends and styles and colours. At the end of the day, all brides want a memory for a lifetime. They want to wear something that’s timeless so when they look at their photographs 10 years down the line, they’ll be proud of having worn something classic that will go along way. This is what we see on-screen too.”
Noor Anand Chawla pens lifestyle articles for various publications and her blogs www.nooranandchawla.com.