In an exclusive interview with The Sunday Guardian, designer Dolly J unveils her ‘La Vie En Rose’ collection and its inspirations.
Excerpts:
Q. What was the inspiration behind your collection ‘La Vie En Rose’?
A. Our 2024 FDCI India Couture Week collection, La Vie en Rose, is a tribute to eternal elegance and beauty. This collection doesn’t just take you on a journey through time; it invites you to escape into a world where beauty reigns supreme. With intricate embroideries, fluid lines inspired by flowers, and a curated selection of luminous fabrics, La Vie en Rose showcases Dolly J Atelier’s experimental approach to textiles. The collection features a range of festive colors, delicate laces, and expertly balanced silhouettes that blend feminine vulnerability with structured strength, inspired by the art of corsetry.
Q. You’re known to create magic on the ramp. What kind of preparation goes into a Dolly J fashion show?
A. This year, we began our creative process with vibrant colors while still keeping gold and silver as constants across nearly 40 looks. Lurex metallic fabrics hold a special place in my heart, and their prevalence in my collections is a testament to my enduring admiration. I’m captivated by their dazzling, attention-grabbing effect, which infuses any design with a sense of luxury and refinement. Not only are they incredibly versatile and resilient, but they also enable me to craft truly show-stopping pieces that embody poise and flair.
Q. What does couture mean to you?
A. In the realm of fashion, ‘couture’ denotes custom-made clothing that exemplifies meticulous attention to detail, precision, and expertise. It involves exceptional tailoring, where each piece is painstakingly crafted to fit an individual’s precise measurements, utilizing only the finest materials and techniques. The term ‘couture’ is often misrepresented in India to describe anything extravagant or luxurious. While this is not technically correct, I partially agree with this usage because the Indian ‘couture’ collections showcased at India Couture Week embody all the aforementioned qualities, including meticulous attention to detail, precision, expertise, and impeccable, bespoke tailoring that caters to a specific customer.
Q. How important is it for you to have a celebrity showstopper on the ramp? Does it help or take away from the collection?
A. Featuring a celebrity showstopper on the runway is a delicate balance. While they undoubtedly bring attention and generate significant media buzz, highlighting the collection, it’s crucial to select a celebrity who embodies the brand’s essence and showcases the collection’s best pieces. In a market like India, where Bollywood reigns supreme, a well-chosen celebrity showstopper can amplify the collection’s red-carpet appeal. However, it’s vital to ensure the celebrity doesn’t overshadow the clothing, detracting from the overall aesthetic and design. A harmonious balance between showcasing the celebrity and the collection is key. When executed correctly, a celebrity showstopper can elevate the collection, but a mismatch can have the opposite effect. Sonakshi Sinha, for instance, perfectly captured our brand’s ethos and showcased our collection’s highlights. Ultimately, the success of a celebrity showstopper depends on thoughtful selection, context, and balance.
Q.What defining fashion trends have you noticed that are dominating this season?
A .Indian couture is experiencing a dynamic evolution, with each new season bringing fresh trends to the forefront. This year is no exception, with several key developments standing out:
l Blending traditional and modern elements to create a distinctive fusion style
l Prioritizing comfort without sacrificing aesthetics, featuring flowing silhouettes and intricate draping
l Reimagining classic embroideries and embellishments with contemporary techniques and materials
l Drawing inspiration from diverse sources, including nature, history, and culture
l Pushing boundaries with innovative color combinations and unconventional fabric choices
Q. Where do you see Indian couture headed in the near future?
A.The future of Indian couture looks bright, with a promising trajectory that aligns with emerging trends and shifting consumer values. Here are some potential developments that may shape the industry in the near future:
l Eco-conscious luxury: A growing focus on sustainable materials, minimal waste, and responsible production methods will cater to the increasingly environmentally aware consumer.
l Body positivity and inclusivity: Designers will likely embrace diverse body types, ages, and abilities, promoting individuality and self-expression.
l Technology-driven innovation: The adoption of cutting-edge textiles, 3D printing, and digital printing will unlock new creative possibilities and enhance efficiency.
l Cross-cultural exchange: Indian couture may incorporate global styles, fabrics, and techniques, yielding fresh, hybrid creations that resonate with international audiences.
l Heritage preservation: Efforts to revive and innovate traditional Indian craftsmanship will ensure its continued relevance and appeal to younger generations.
l Digital transformation: Indian couture designers may strengthen their online presence, offering immersive experiences like virtual try-ons, personalized consultations, and direct-to-consumer sales.
l Crossover into global red-carpet events: Indian couture may gain prominence at international award shows, film festivals, and celebrity events, further boosting its global reputation.
l Experimentation with new silhouettes and themes: Designers may push boundaries by introducing unconventional silhouettes, themes, and storytelling through their collections.