From undulating sand dunes and majestic sandstone and basalt cliffs to ancient petroglyphs that hold clue to antiquity, Wadi Rum is a dream world.
Wadi Rum, Jordan: It is almost noon as we enter Wadi Rum, one of the world’s most spectacular and protected deserts. Dotted with undulating dunes, mysterious canyons, and majestic sandstone and basalt cliffs dramatically springing out of the sand bed, Wadi Rum, located near Jordan’s southern most border, is a stunning expanse of brick-red sand that sparkles as the sun turns its full fury on the terrain down below. “Watch out,” screamed Dakhilallah, our driver and guide with a mischievous glint in his kohl-lined eyes. “The Rum is hypnotic. It will cast its spell on you. You wouldn’t want to leave it.”
Dakhilallah is an illiterate Bedouin but speaks fluent English. He learnt the language by conversing with foreign tourists. As we navigate through the vast wilderness, Dakhilallah’s words turn almost prophetic. What inspire one, apart from the enchanting spectacle, are the ancient stones that guard remnants of a lost world onto their walls and into their nooks and crannies. These are either in the form petroglyphs, kind of a rock art, or inscriptions and architectural ruins. Each stone has a tale to narrate; of an evolving civilization dating back to a few thousand years ago that withstood the adversity of the austere desert life and yet, left an indelible mark on the pages of the world’s history.
One can locate several petroglyphs in this area, most of which could be tracked back to 800 BC and attributed to Thamud, a nomadic tribe. The carvings are mostly in human and animal forms in varied shapes and sizes. One could also visualise certain symbols like lines and circles indicating sources of water, shelter and food, believed to be instructions left by the travelling tribes for the benefit of others. “The iconic inscriptions hold testimony to emergence of some rudimentary alphabets,” said Dakhilallah. Whatever it is, these nomads seemed not only highly literate but also highly humane.
Our next stop is the Lawrence water spring, an oasis of life named in the honour of T.E. Lawrence, a British army officer, who spearheaded the Arab revolt against the Ottoman Empire during the First World War. Lawrence wore many hats. He was an archaeologist, diplomat and a writer. However, his most poignant and hence memorable role, which became the subject matter of Hollywood maestro David Lean’s 1962 magnum opus Lawrence of Arabia, was that of the champion of downtrodden people. He was an officer, who was torn between serving the British Empire and assisting the combating local Arab tribes. The spring itself finds a mention in Lawrence’s account of the desert in the Seven Pillars of Wisdom, his wartime memoirs.
We then head towards the red sand dune. Climbing the dune is a Herculean task. One wrong step and you will come tumbling down. Reaching the top, however, is not difficult, provided you adopt the right strategy. You got to take the rocky road while climbing up, carefully stepping into shallow nooks and crevices. You may, however, run down the sand dune during your downward journey. It is quite exhilarating.
It is a different world up there, almost like being on Mars or some other alien planet. The vast wilderness, glistening red sand, solitude and the mesmerising sound of the bellowing wind that resonates through the valley, shroud the desert in a kind of a mystery. No wonder that apart from Lawrence of Arabia, several other Hollywood flicks like The Martian (2015), Rogue One: A Star Wars Story (2016), Mission to Mars (2000) have been shot here. Wadi Rum, also known as the valley of moon, is indeed a huge and an international star.
Khazali Canyon is a long, narrow, rocky stretch, its walls replete with Anfishiyyeh inscription, an ancient collection of Thamudic and Nabataean (these are names of ancient nomadic tribes) petroglyphs. There is a water hole too. We walk through the narrow passage trying to unravel the clues of the antiquity on the rocky walls. There is much more to discover, but Dakhilallah halted our expedition saying, “Go ahead only if you are a rock climber”. Since none of us were, we did an about turn. Our disappointment at not being able to explore the Khazali canyon further turned to glee as we climbed the impressive rock bridge to get a spectacular valley view. We pay quick visits to other historical sites like the Lawrence house and Seven Pillars of Wisdom, a rock formation named after Lawrence’s famous book, from the visitor centre.
As we start our return journey, we witness the myriad looks of the desert. As evening descends, it adorns an alluringly seductive look with the setting sun imparting a soft orange-red glow to it. Come night and the temperature drops drastically. The Rum comes of age; it breathes life. As the sky gets lit up with a thousand stars, it magically transforms into molten copper, its vast wilderness stretching before one like a dream world straight out of the Arabian Nights.
Since ours was a day trip we did not stay in the desert to experience its nightly magnificence. However, those of you who would wish to spend the night at Wadi Rum have two options. You may stay at the base camps, which are spacious, cosy and comfortable and equipped with toilets. You will be served authentic Bedouin cuisine over local music and lore. The adventurous types may opt for Bivouac camping where you live and feel like a Bedouin. You live in a cave like the ancient nomads and sleep under the starry sky. These caves are fully booked during the high season. A note of caution: a Bivouac camp does not have washroom facilities.
Spread over 700 odd sq km, Wadi Rum, which is about a four-hour drive from the capital city of Amman, was once believed to be under the sea. The Aqaba Special Economic Zone Association (ASECA) is guarding this treasure since 1988 and since 2011 it is also on the UNESCO’s protected site list.
However, what truly protects it is the passion and fierce pride of its inhabitants. Dakhilallah wants his kids to be well educated and is ready to send them abroad for further studies. “But I want them to return to the desert,” he said. We ask why, isn’t the desert life harsh, and surely there are greener pastures elsewhere. “Maybe,” he quipped, “but those born and brought up here share a special bond with this desert. It talks to us. I return to it every night and pour out my heart. Its touch, its feel purifies me. There is something cathartic about it.”