Before the idea of ‘India’ even existed, the world knew of a region boasting exquisite craftsmanship in textiles of a tremendous variety. The knowledge of techniques, artistry and fabrics that was inherently known by our ancestors was further bolstered by fresh ideas and skills of the numerous traders and foreign dynasties that settled here. Over centuries of this mingling of culture and craft, emerged a handloom industry that cannot be replicated anywhere in the world.
Things have come a long way since then, with fast fashion and international trends taking over the fashion landscape. Fortunately, a few noteworthy indie brands are on a mission to keep the handloom industry going strong. “We don’t believe we are in the fashion industry but think of ourselves as creators and purveyors of craft,” says Aditi Chand, the co-founder and CEO of Tilfi, echoing the sentiments of numerous others. This national handloom day, we round up the brands reimagining age-old crafts to sustain this long-standing industry while appealing to the modern customer.
Angadi Heritage
The House of Angadi, born of a 600-year old legacy in textiles, has birthed a number of brands, of which Angadi Heritage is its flagship retail offering in Bengaluru. Since 2001, the brand has focused on bringing Indian luxury textiles to the modern Indian consumer. Through its gorgeous Kanjeevaram silks and more, the label offers access to traditional design and culture in a modern context.
In the words of Supria Radaraman, COO, the House of Angadi, “We believe that Angadi Heritage has helped elevate the offering of handcrafted products and handlooms in India. This has enabled the discerning consumer to understand what makes Indian textiles special. There has been a shift in perception about handcrafted products as symbols of Indian luxury.”
Tilfi
Though the heritage craft of Banarasi handloom had been their family’s business for decades, the co-founders of Tilfi, Udit and Ujjwal Khanna and Aditi Chand only entered the fray because of a chance conversation with one of their weavers. “He inspired us to return to our roots, to build a purpose-driven company and take this exceptional craft and its craftsmen to a global platform,” declares Chand.
They offer sarees, lehengas, suits, and menswear made of pure fabrics exclusively in Banaras, with their flagship store set to open in Mumbai later this year. Each of their collections is focused on a particular weaving technique, family of colours, pattern, or motif, including weaving styles like Rangkat, Dampach, Tanchoi and Kadhua. Chand asserts that Banarasi weaving goes beyond brocades to fabrics like katan, satin, cotton, kora, georgette and more, bearing multiple patterns like meenakari jaals, jamawar, jangla, rangkat etc.
Chidiyaa
Crafted by hand in the villages of Ajrakhpur in Gujarat and Phulia in Bengal, Chidiyaa aims to revive the art form of block printing, hand spun and handwoven silk and linen sarees among other textile and craft designs. It claims nature, sustainable practices and the beauty of simplicity as its inspiration.
Founder Pooja Rajput had always been creative, visiting bazaars in villages and small towns to explore traditional handicrafts and techniques. These visits became the genesis of Chidiyaa. “We focus on slow fashion by creating high quality garments with unique yet wearable designs that stand the test of time. We like to ensure a contemporary touch to traditional handicrafts of India at Chidiyaa.”
EKÁ Design Studio
Inspired by traditional textile techniques, EKÁ’s collection of Kota weaves, light-as-air linen, and block-printed khadi dresses stand apart. They offer layered and unconventional cuts, anti-fit clothes that fall away from the body to flatter and enhance, and outfits made in breathable fabrics that are universally popular.
These include handwoven Kota, cotton silks, Jamdani and linens. Different collections take inspiration from the beauty of varied parts of India, with a recent one paying homage to Kohima in Nagaland. “Each piece of ours is a unique ode to the handwoven rich textile crafts of the country,” says founder and creative director Rina Singh.
Johargram
While many labels look to the varied handloom traditions across India, label Johargram stays true to its roots in Jharkhand. This ethical sustainable streetwear brand exclusively promotes the textiles and crafts of this state. By endorsing the culture and way of living of ethnic minorities and tribal communities, they aim to keep it alive for future generation to appreciate, even as they create job opportunities in remote areas. They do so by infusing traditional Jharkhandi craft techniques into modern gear including co-ord sets, jackets, caps and more.
Founder Ashish Satyavrat Sahu welcomes the change in perspective, “Fortunately, there is increased awareness among people regarding sustainability, the use of natural dyes, breathable fabrics, and the effect of fast fashion on the environment. Things are looking up.”
Tree JM
“The name ‘Tree’ symbolizes our deep-rooted connection to nature and the values passed down through generations,” shares founder of Bengaluru-based Tree JM, Jasna Moidu. Since their inception eight years ago, the label has explored numerous traditional crafts, regions, techniques and materials, including cottons, silks, kutchi work, jamdani, bandhani, tangaliya, and ikats. The brand collaborates with skilled artisans from around India with West Bengal, Kutch, Rajasthan, and Kerala, being a few noteworthy examples.
Even their collections are inspired by the vibrant colors and intricate patterns found in the natural world, which are painstakingly brought to life through the use of bagru hand block prints created with natural dyes and motifs inspired by traditional Rajasthani art and culture.
Ura Maku
In Assamese, Ura signifies flying, and Maku is the shuttle used for weaving. This name embodies the spirit of the label founded by Manjushree Saikia to promote the handloom industry of Assam. Through a variety of modern silhouettes, she showcases the best of Assamese handloom techniques on the region’s handcrafted fabrics woven by skilled local artisans.
Ura Maku’s aesthetic is simple with sharp tailored cuts emphasising timeless dressing. There are dresses, power suits, coats and more made exclusively in eri, muga and mulberry silk. Saikia emphasises, “Instead of changing the nature of our traditional textiles through design, we chose to focus on the indigenous textiles, yarns and fibres of the north-east.”
Noor Anand Chawla pens lifestyle articles for various publications and her blog www.nooranandchawla.com.