Eating clean is so easy in Sri Lanka. One is not even desirous to grab a sandwich, chocolate or a bag of nachos thanks to the many ingenious options available all around.
My quest for local Sri Lankan cooking leads to Chef Shantha at Amanwella in Tangalle, known for his technique and fascination with Sri Lankan flavours. Although his style stays true to the heart and soul of the traditional classic, he augments humble but ingenious tweaks with his ayurvedic style of cooking.
Ninety eight percent of the ingredients at Amanwella are local, grown and picked from their own organic garden.
However, as they cannot produce enough to cater for the entire resort, Shantha works closely with local farmers in nearby villages, who supply the resort and some of their family members are full-time staff working on the property. We’re up early because Shantha has promised us a visit to the local fish market followed by a local breakfast at the resort’s shack by the beach. Inside we are handed plates, onto which he ladles stew on the idiyappam; washed down with fresh coconut water, it’s a prelude of great things to come.
Not too far away is Galle. If you plan your trip well, nothing in Sri Lanka is over two hours away. We wander through its labyrinth of art galleries and souvenir shops, admiring the small cafes along the way. There are also cafes with a gamut of coffee offerings and several ice-cream parlours. I also make a note to eat at the popular Isle of Gelato, which is in the same area, post lunch. The famed Pedlar’s Inn serves everything from local to pizzas. We pass by several quaint looking restaurants, only to settle for the less adventurous, but still immensely satisfying, freshly made steamed baos and juicy dumplings with Iced Americano at the Dumplings Café.
And no trip to Galle is complete if you do not dine at the historical Amangalla; each dish here is par excellence but the local Sri Lankan food is something I would highly recommend. Contrary to the Sri Lankan food stereotype, it’s not all sea food. We go for the red rice, artfully topped with bright vegetables, julienned cucumber, tomato and onions. Salt is minimal and nothing is fried, but the vegetables are fresh, local so flavours are intense. Awakening from homespun vegetables sounds bizarre, till you essentially taste a meal like this. The highlight of my stay here apart from the views and the Spa is experiencing a conventional roti dinner in its rural Ambalama pavilion as fireflies’ ballet in the rice paddies around and dining below the stars together with the hotel’s pool, with a tailored menu (in my case always a local Sri Lankan meal), twinkling lights cascading from the trees and a resident flutist offering showbiz.
A swimsuit and a sarong. Bentota essentials. By the time we wash our hands, the cheery General Manager at the Taj has sent fresh coconut water to our room. He’s also sent a list of places for sight-seeing and we should eat at. But our friend and self-appointed guide in Sri Lanka, the limitless Pankaj, warns us not to eat out too much, because he feels that the best meal is at the hotel itself. The ‘by the Ocean’ location of The Shack gives the space an edge over the others so as to embark on a crusade to taste simple pleasures of life. And yes, the sea is not a sheer prop at this Merivale establishment, its seas clank over the menu, too. Above the open kitchen, one can see planks scribbled with oysters, fresh catch and Sashimi Platter of the day.
Melancholy seems to be a prevalent theme in Sri Lanka. The food is meticulously connected to history, and locals are as romantic about the bygone as they are passionate about the predictable wave of Westernised food. It’s a fascinating balance: old-style tea houses, period and cosmopolitan restaurants, all packed on any given night. Last time I was in Colombo, Raja Bojun was the epicentre for Sri Lankan food: curries, hoppers, sombol etc. This time, a gastronome friend suggests we expand our horizons and so we head to Upali’s by Nawaloka, which specialises in Sri Lankan cuisine. The food is fascinatingly familiar. We eat red rice, dal, brinjal, gotukola sambol, crab curry and finish with sweet treacle yoghurt. Later that evening a friend takes us to Monsoon on Park Street, where we eat Steamed Thai Barramundi and also go for some Malaysian Satay, which are both healthy and comfortable. Well, excluding for the point that we OD on cocktails. In our defence, they’re beautifully elaborate: the tamarind melon alone signature cocktail comprises watermelon, tamarind lime, elderflower syrup partnered with Tequila Gold. We begin with Arrack bombs. Our friend showed us how to first drink up some beer and then, line up a pair of metal chopsticks on a mug of Lion stout, and balance a shot glass of Arrack on top. Then, he bangs his fist against the unsteady table upsetting the chopsticks so the shot glass falls into the beer mug. ‘Now drink,’ he grins. We dutifully lift our arrack-spiked beer.
Encouraged by the arrack, we continue to party at the Capital, a rollicking bar in Shangri-La, popular with tourists and locals alike. More proof that Sri Lanka has an aptitude for carrying assorted features together, whether they’re ingredients, cultures or nationalities. to craft an enthralling brew. Popular culture is trendy for a reason, it’s enjoyable.
Golden Dragon, the Chinese restaurant at Taj Samudra is known for its generous portions and is highly patronised. If you are craving Japanese, then look no further than Yumi for the best Sushi and Teppanyaki in Colombo. I would highly recommend grabbing a table at the Saphyr Lounge at Shangri-la for an afternoon tea, an iconic meal abounding with delicate cakes and sandwiches served on China cake stands and complemented by a choice of teas. I go for the local Sri Lankan goodies comprising the lamb samosa, curried fish buns, caramel banana and cashew cake, freshly baked cinnamon scones with homemade pineapple and coconut jam and clotted cream, an option here and soon realise they are addictive…as it is almost impossible to resist taking another… and another.
Absorbed in greens, the vivacious setting of the Black Cat Cafe is arresting. Come with adequate time – and stretch pants, coffee here is a lasting affair and there’s so much interesting food, you’ll need to pace yourself. I have breakfast here and end up sitting until lunchtime. Sunday Brunch at the Barefoot Garden Café is a must. Back in the 1990’s it just served fish patties and fresh lime, today it’s versatile and a whole lot of fun in an alfresco ambience with exceptional bands playing great music in the background. Crabs in Sri Lanka are a famous story, as are the fancy Seafood restaurants that are plating up prepared and designed food. And, the crab restaurant that everyone talks about is, Ministry of Crab.
Interestingly, the restaurant has made the crossover from cliche to smart global, drawing locals and expats alike. Probably thanks to its smart format and local ingredients, such as the newly introduced Coconut crème brulee. Coconut Crème Brulee? Now this is an inspiration to carry back home.
GETTING THERE
Air India, Sri Lankan and Vistara offer direct flights from Mumbai and Delhi to Colombo. Other major cities have easy connections on IndiGo.
Awarded the “Best food writer in the country” by the Indian culinary forum, WACS and the ministry of Tourism, Rupali Dean writes on food and travel.