The toxic trio of formaldehyde, toluene, and DBP are commonly found in cosmetics.
COSMETOLOGY is about beauty treatments for the skin, hair, and nails. Hair styling, makeup, skincare, manicures, pedicures, and non-permanent hair removals such as waxing, sugaring and chemical hair removal to enhance a person’s appearance are all part of cosmetology. Aesthetic (cosmetic) dermatologists are skin doctors specially trained to use a vast non-surgical armamentarium for skin polishing (microdermabrasion), to remove dead skin and improve skin appearance; facial rejuvenation to restore a more youthful appearance to the face using chemical peels, phototherapy (with ultraviolet light), laser therapy, and micro-needling; permanent hair removal by electrology or intense pulsed light (IPL); tattoo removal with Q-switch laser; Cautery or cryotherapy for skin tags, moles or warts; Botox (botulinum toxin) injections to temporarily relax muscles to smooth wrinkles; dermal filler (gel-like substances) injections to reduce wrinkles, scars and skin depressions in the face and hands. Plastic surgeons do aesthetic (cosmetic) and reconstructive surgery to improve the appearance and function of the body by restoring, reconstructing, or altering skin and underlying tissues. They repair congenital deformities, post-surgical defects, and post-traumatic defects. An oral cosmetologist is a dentist/oro-maxillo-facial surgeon who performs cosmetic dental procedures. These procedures can improve the appearance of teeth by straightening, lightening, or reshaping.
COSMETOLOGISTS are trained and licensed (an occupational license is required in the USA) to perform cosmetic treatments to the hair, skin, and nails. Some cosmetology saloons offer cutting, colouring, and chemical hair treatment, fashion trends, wigs, nail aesthetics, and apply makeup to cover up dark spots, for photoshoots and theatre. Some offer skin and hair analysis, ultrasound and mechanical massage (with vacuum and muscle vibrator), aroma therapies or promote reflexology.
AESTHETICIANS or beauticians are specially trained and cosmetology board (in the USA) licensed professionals who work in salons, spas, skin care clinics, and private practices. Aestheticians may under the supervision of a doctor also perform treatments such as microdermabrasion, micro-current (also known as non-surgical “face lifts”), cosmetic electrotherapy treatments, LED (light-emitting diode) treatments, laser or electrolysis hair removal, colour matched tattooing of light patches, permanent makeup application, light chemical peels, eyelash extensions, and microblading (implanting pigment into the skin to create fuller, darker eyebrows). They can treat a variety of cosmetic skin issues, such as mild acne, hyperpigmentation, and aging skin but clients with skin disease and disorders are referred to a dermatologist.
COSMETOLOGY CAREER OPTIONS: The following career options exist in cosmetology – Barber, hair colour specialist, skin care consultant (Aesthetician), cosmetics manager, image consultant, salon manager, prosthetist, beauty products representative, and beauty products sales manager. To remain relevant in this career one must keep up with rapidly changing trends, such as new haircuts, colours, makeup techniques, and skincare advancements. Also, be able to meet clients’ requests inspired by social media influencers or celebrity styles. On graduating from cosmetology courses, students in India can work as professional cosmetologists in cosmetology schools, spas and wellness centres, beauty parlours, skin clinics, cosmetic companies, film and fashion industry, or as independent cosmetologists.
OCCUPATIONAL HAZARDS: Many hazardous chemicals like dibutyl phthalate(DBP), toluene, formaldehyde, lye (sodium hydroxide), ammonia, and coal tar found in cosmetics and cosmetology treatments such as hair colouring, straightening, perms, relaxers, keratin treatments, Brazilian blowouts, and nail
treatments pose adverse health risks. The toxic trio of formaldehyde, toluene, and DBP are commonly found in cosmetics, especially nail polish, nail glue, nail polish removers, hair straightening products, and hair dyes. These affect the skin and rapidly mix with the air to affect the eyes, nose, throat, and lungs of stylists and clients. Reported problems include skin irritation, nose-bleeds, burning eyes and throat, watery eyes, runny nose, loss of sense of smell, headaches, fatigue, coughing, chest pain, shortness of breath, wheezing, and asthma attacks. Formaldehyde is a common ingredient in Brazilian blowouts, Cadiveu, and Keratin Complete Smoothing Therapies. Formaldehyde has been linked to nasal and lung cancer, with possible links to brain cancer and leukemia. Toluene inhalation during pregnancy has led to intrauterine growth retardation, premature delivery, congenital malformations, and postnatal developmental retardation. DBP causes reproductive issues during pregnancy and has been banned by the European Union. As most cosmetologists are young women of reproductive age, these chemicals can affect their fertility (premature ovarian failure) and increase the risk of pregnancy disorders, premature births, and birth defects. More than 9,000 chemicals are found in cosmetic products. Many of these cause allergies and adverse health effects. Allergies and dermatitis have forced approximately 20% of hairdressers to stop practicing their profession.
COSMETICS SAFETY REGULATIONS: Surprisingly the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not have the authority to demand safety data from cosmetics manufacturers and it is not legally responsible for cosmetic product or ingredient safety. U.S. cosmetic companies are not required to register their product or ingredients with the FDA. The FDA cannot recall harmful cosmetic products. Instead, the manufacturer is legally responsible for correct labeling, using safe ingredients, and product recall. Occupational Safety and Health Administration, a U.S. agency sets and enforces workplace safety standards. OSHA requires manufacturers, importers, and distributors to provide Safety data sheets (SDS) with details of how workers can protect themselves, and what they should do in an emergency with any formaldehyde product. As per OSHA’s formaldehyde standard, a product containing methylene glycol, formalin, methylene oxide, paraform, formic aldehyde, methanal, oxomethane, oxymethylene, or CAS Number 50-00-0 should be treated as a product containing formaldehyde. The European Union (EU) mandates premarket safety testing and cosmetology product and ingredient registration. The EU has banned 1,328 chemicals used in cosmetics and does not permit animal testing for cosmetics. As numerous imported cosmetics are used in India, salon owners, stylists, and customers should be alert and carefully read product labels and SDS sheets.
Dr. P.S.Venkatesh Rao is Consultant Endocrine, Breast & Laparoscopic Surgeon, Bengaluru.