Often called the “First Lady of Indian fashion”, Ritu Beri has come a long way since she launched her own label in 1990. A graduate of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), she became the first Indian designer to have a show in Paris, the city where she wanted to be since she was 10 and where she successfully showcased her first luxe collection in 1998. Her foray into the West was a breakthrough moment for not just her but also Indian fashion, which was not yet out of its colonial hangover.
In this backdrop, when Ritu was made the chief designer of French couture house Scherrer, the first Asian to get this honour, it was a moment of utter disbelief and euphoria for many. She had broken a formidable fashion glass ceiling that was unthinkable—and even unfathomable—for most Indians then. As Ritu confesses in an interview with this writer, “Back then not many Indian designers had even done shows in Paris and for an Indian designer to be heading a French fashion house was an impossible dream.”
Over the years, Ritu went on to work with some of the biggest global brands, besides dressing up the who’s who of the world—from Bill Clinton and Prince Charles, to Nicole Kidman, Katrina Kaif and Akshay Kumar. Such has been the scale of her success that Time magazine not long ago clubbed her among the ‘People to Watch’ in international business.
After almost three decades in the fashion industry, Ritu believes it’s time for her to give back the sector which has given her so much. With this objective in mind, she has set up The Luxury League, a not-for-profit organisation, “to promote and market Indian luxury and initiate the concept of branding India globally”. Ritu believes the concept of luxury is misunderstood in India. “Luxury is not new to India. In fact, for me, India epitomizes luxury… Jewellery, yoga, dance forms, textile (khadi) and embroideries, Ayurveda and art are the true luxury from India,” she emphasises.
As The Luxury League gears up to hold The Luxury Symposium 2018 in New Delhi on November 26, The Sunday Guardian talks to the ace designer on issues ranging from her notion of fashion and luxury, to her love for khadi and admiration for PM Modi. Following are the excerpts of the interview:
Q. Tell us about your journey as one of the pioneers of Indian fashion.
A. It has been a creative voyage for me. We were among the pioneers in the business with no map to follow, for me it was totally instinctive and I did everything spontaneously.
Q. How would you describe the brand Ritu Beri?
A. I love to work with rich brocades, jacquards, chiffon and georgettes, fabrics that lend sensuality to any look. I try to blend the old-world charm of traditional embroideries with modern-day patterns and shapes to create interesting textures that allure any look. I specifically enjoy creating a mélange between India and the West.
Q. Please tell us the idea behind the setting up of The Luxury League.
A. The Luxury League is established to promote and market Indian luxury and initiate the concept of branding India globally. It aims at creating a consortium internationally by targeting decision-makers, luxury brands influential personalities and designers. One of the missions of The Luxury League is to make the world aware of the wealth of knowledge contained within the workshops of companies as well as create career opportunities for the youth of India.
Q. What does luxury mean to you? And why has it become such a dirty word in India?
A. The term luxury is a totally misunderstood and misused word. Luxury is not new to India—In fact, I believe India epitomisesluxury. India is a real treasure trove and an inspiration for the entire world with its profound history. Jewellery, yoga, dance forms, textile and embroideries, Ayurveda and art are the true luxury from India.
The luxury industry is an excellent vehicle to enhance the Image of India, globally. It conveys perfectly the image of modern India. Further, India’s growing tribe of luxury consumers is more travelled, more discerning, and more demanding than ever before. I desire to open the Indian doors to luxury brands from various countries and to strengthen the voice of India abroad— the idea is to create an increased pool of knowledge and competence. It will aim at strengthening the influence of India in the global luxury industry.
Q. You are a big khadi admirer. What explains this fascination for khadi?
A. I love khadi. In fact, one of my first few collections which I launched in 1990 were in khadi. It’s a weaver’s delight and a very comfortable fabric. I personally wear a lot of khadi. I love the fabric and find it very versatile, the most breathable and comfortable fabric to wear in summer. It is the signature fabric of India.
Q. Has Narendra Modi’s presence boosted the sale of khadi?
A. Prime Minister Narendra Modi is a great ambassador for khadi, and has given it a facelift.
Q. A lot is said and written about Modi’s dress sense. How do you rate him?
A. Prime Minister Modi knows very well how to stay perfect with the trends and reflect his iconic style. From wearing pistachio green half-sleeved kurtas buttoned up till his neck, with a traditional élan thus enriching our Indian ethnic styles, to wearing trench coats with Texan hats paired perfectly with his denims and Western-style trousers—he carries everything he wears with an attitude and confidence which makes it an instant winner. He perfectly defines the true meaning of individualistic style in all the variations of the clothes he wears.
Q. Having been in the fashion industry for as long, what are some of the incidents that excite you?
A. Joining the first batch of NIFT proved to be a turning point in my life. I started my journey in the fashion world with François Lesage as my mentor. We have had an 18-year-old association; he was my history lesson on the French brands and their designers.
In the past 28 years, I have chased my dreams and worked on ambitious projects. I have been lucky to experience the world of fashion in India and abroad. Today I have come a full circle and know what I should do and more importantly what not to do.
Q. You have lived in Delhi and Paris. How have the two cities shaped your life?
A. I’d always believe Paris is my destiny. It was meant for me. Since I was 10, Paris was where I wanted to be. When I look back, I realisehow the two cities have shaped my design sensibilities incredibly.
Q. What should Indian designers do today to get noticed and make their presence felt in the West?
A. I would say that Indian designers have made a mark in the world and are establishing themselves in this industry. Fashion Industry is growing at a rapid pace with international developments; the India Fashion Week has been gaining popularity and annual shows by fashion designers are being held in major Indian cities. Indian designers are at a nascent stage as far as the international market is concerned. Our designers are constantly showcasing in various fashion capitals of the world, but for them to be taken seriously in the international market they should be consistent in showcasing their collections.
Q. These days, international fashion houses seem open to having Indian designers head them. What has brought about this change in their mindset?
A. I believe that India today is of great interest to people globally and has also greatly influenced the fashion capitals of the world. Top designers are looking at India for inspiration and using Indian craftsmen to realise their couture collections. India today is, therefore, constantly spotted on the fashionable ramps of the world and is a huge sense of Inspiration.
Q. What’s the most memorable moment for you as an ace fashion designer?
A. As the first Asian to head a French fashion house. Back then not many Indian designers had even done shows in Paris and for an Indian designer to be heading a French fashion house was an impossible dream. And being featured in one of the best international fashion forecast magazine Promostyl is truly memorable, each opportunity brings along incredible experiences.
Q. Which celebrity did you enjoy working with?
A. From dignitaries like former US president Bill Clinton and Prince Charles to stars Nicole Kidman, Andy McDowell, Elizabeth Jagger, Katie Holmes, Katrina Kaif, Akshay Kumar, Rani Mukherjee, Madhuri Dixit and Preity Zinta— they have all worn the Ritu Beri label. For me, each client is important and I feel equally special working with all of them.
Q. What has kept you and your illustrious career going?
A. I have had a blessed life. I am fortunate to get the opportunities to tick most of my wish list. Mine is a story of a young Indian fashion designer who dreams and aspires to conquer the huge global fashion world in Paris. My obsession with Paris and the desire to go beyond the usual is what ventured me on this crazy journey. Paris well represents the French Capital’s illustrious past—it also stands for the grandest there is in the world of luxury.
I guess my courage to go on came from the fact that I preferred disaster to nothingness. I loved the adventure of both weaving the rope and climbing it at the same time. I was the only Indian designer then, to be seen in Paris. The most courageous act was to think in English in a French-speaking city. Unswerving faith and lavish creativity kept me going!