The quality parameters for shaving creams include froth volume generated, skin-friendliness and beard-softening quotient, and the “experience” of the shave which includes fragrance among other things. Shaving creams also serve the very important function of ensuring that you get the least, if any, nicks and cuts in the act of shaving. All of these attributes are determined by the composition of the shaving cream, for which the national standards have specified parameters and limits. A consumer who buys a given brand has no idea about how the brand fares on quality parameters. Comparative Testing Studies by Consumer Voice unravelled this mystery in lab tests. Eight popular brands of shaving creams (lather type) were tested and assessed along parameters that determine their performance, quality and safety aspects. The eight brands were priced between Rs 60 and Rs 75 per tube, wherein the most expensive one was Meister and Dettol, then Gillette (Rs 69), Axe and Park Avenue at Rs 65 each, Old Spice, Vi John and Godrej at Rs 60 each.
How the brands were tested?
The Accredited Lab tested each of the eight brands on parameters such as total fatty substance, lathering power, water content, stability, consistency, homogeneity, free caustic alkali, microbiological contamination and presence of the heavy metals like arsenic and lead. As per Indian Standard, there are two types of shaving creams: Type 1—lather and Type 2—brushless. This test covered only lather type. Performance of the shaving cream is related to the quality of the shaving brush. The test methods were based on Indian Standard 9740 and other related standards.
Six out of the eight brands had promotional schemes with extra free cream. At the same time, consumers should note the significant variation in maximum retail prices while choosing their brand. This extra quantity offered by the six brands is not likely to be a permanent feature. Once their marketing goals are reached, they may stop offering the bonus quantity being used for brand promotion. Vi John got 89/100 followed by Godrej 88/100 and Axe and Par Avenue 87/100 each. It is pertinent to point out that many years ago Vi John had topped this test and that time it had a much lower price and had been adjudged the best buy as well as best value for money. This shows that in a competitive market, top positions have to be obtained by improving quality and lowering price. Top positions can be snatched by better brands as has been the case with Old spice in this test.
Performance and quality
Nine major tests were performed on each brand. The results for each test are explained below:
Total fatty substance (TFS)
Indian Standard has stipulated that shaving cream must have at least 30% fatty substance.
All brands had more fatty substance than the minimum requirement of 30%.
It was highest in Old Spice (39.83%), followed by Gillette (39.43%) and Dettol (38.56%).
Axe had the lowest TFS among the lot, but with 31.92%, it too complied with the minimum requirement.
Lathering power
The national standard stipulates that there be at least 100ml of lather whipped up by a shaving cream.
All brands generated lather far more than the minimum requirement. Godrej and Axe generated the highest quantity of lather (360ml), followed by Meister (345ml)
Water content
Lower water content is an indicator of high active ingredients. One with high water content will need more cream to whip up lather. Water content maintains the shaving cream’s consistency, which in turn influences the product’s physical properties such as weight, density, viscosity and lathering action. As per the standard water content should not be more than 60% of the total mass of the cream.
All brands had much lower water content than the 60% limit set by the standards.
Water content was least in Park Avenue (28.84%) and highest in Vi-John (43.45%).
Stability
It means the shaving cream will not segregate or physically deteriorate during normal condition of storage and use. It had a weight of 4/100.
Consistency
It requires the shaving cream to be in the form of a thick emulsion with soft texture and steady consistency. It shall be white, off-white/cream, or pigmented, and of a uniform colour. It also had a weight of 4/100.
Homogeneity
It requires the shaving cream to be able to extrude from the collapsible tube at 27 °C (±2°C) in the form of a homogeneous mass, with the application of normal force starting from the crimped end of the tube. It had a weight of 4/100.
All brands complied with the requirements
Safety parameters
It includes free caustic alkali, heavy metals and microbiological safety.
Free caustic alkali can cause irritation and rashes on skin and it had a weight of 7/100. Heavy metals like lead and arsenic which cause harm to skin had a weight of 4/100, and were not detected in any of the tested brands. All brands also complied with the required limits for microbiological counts. These parameters each have a weight of 5/100.
Sensory Attributes
The sensory tests were conducted involving selected panel members to assess consumers’ preferences. Panel-members used warm water and brushes for application of the cream and used the samples like any other consumer would. The shaving creams were duly masked and coded to avoid any bias by user. Post experiencing the creams, the panelists commented on various attributes including flavour, consistency, homogeneity, lathering ability, softening quality and overall acceptability. The testing team noted the critical observations and calculated and rated the mean values on a percentage scale. These ratings had an overall score of 15 based on panel members ratings.
Old Spice was rated as the best, followed by Meister and Park Avenue.
Godrej shaving cream scored lowest.
Marking and labelling
The following particulars are required to be mentioned on the product:
Name and type of shaving cream
Manufacturer’s name and/or recognised trademark, if any
Net mass of the material in tube. As per the Standards of Weights and Measures Rules, the maximum permissible error for shaving creams up to 50gm is 1gm and for up to 100 gm it is 2gm.
Batch number (in code or otherwise)
Any other requirement as prescribed by the statutory authorities
Instructions for use and storage
“Best before” date
The product may also carry the ISI certification mark.
All the brands have given required information on product label or packagings.
Except for Old Spice and Gillette, none of the brands specify instructions for use.
Packing
As per Indian Standard, the shaving cream shall be packed in a suitable container (flexible plastic bottle, sachet, etc.) with a tube that is properly crimped. The cap shall be leak-proof.
All tested brands have tubes that are collapsible and made of PVC-type flexible material. These are further packed in hard paper box.
Conclusion
A good lather shaving cream should be able to produce a rich lather composed of small bubbles. It should not be an irritant to the skin. It should have good wetting properties and be smooth, soft and free from lumps. The cream should adhere readily to both face and brush and yet be easily removed on rinsing. It should retain a satisfactory consistency and texture through all temperature conditions. Most brands meet the test standards, some better than others. In this rating, Old Spice comes on top as the best buy with Meister as the value for money brand mainly due to buy one get one free offer.
The author is Managing Editor of Consumer Voice and former Dean and head of Commerce, Delhi School of Economics, University of Delhi
Disclaimer: This study was conducted independently by Consumer Voice